As our days turn warmer and warmer, lay down the red wines, set aside the whites and uncork the refreshing enthusiasm of a chilled bottle of sparkling white wine. Kid-wild, their effervescence dances to the tops of our glasses as carefree children frolicking on a trampoline. Titillating, tiny bubbles burst into the air, gently spraying a fine wet mist on our lips, alluring our senses with the promise of an uncommon wine experience.
Different wines have different ways of attracting our attention. Intense, robust red wines command our attention with their acerbic tannins; lighter reds, such as Pinot Noir gently remind us of their presence with soft fruity acids. White wines are almost apologetic in nature, when asking for consideration. Furtively, they announce their presence with light acids and understated flavors in each sip. Chilled sparkling white wines on the other hand are obvious attention getters; gay and frivolous they tickle our palates with each sip. The liveliness of their effervescent reveals itself in the energy of their bubbles, bursting with unbridled flamboyance. Every mouthful of a sparkling wine exhilarates our senses as their fizz dances its way to the tops of our glasses.
In Italy, sparkling wines bear the name “Spumanti” such as Asti Spumanti, from the village of Asti or the word Frizzante, generally associated with the name of a grape, such as “Moscato”, indicating a gentle effervescence. “Prosecco” is an Italian sparkling wine that derives its name from the grape—Prosecco. These sparkling wines are gentle on the palate and a little sweet. Although they are not necessarily bottle-fermented, as Methode Champenoise requires, their “fizz” or bubbles are uniformly small and delicate. They are gentle, unpretentious wines with hints of mouthwatering, sugary acids underneath a layer of “yeasty earthiness”. These wines also sell for about ten dollars a bottle and are great companions to have with green salads, cold cuts and cheese or just to sip by themselves.
Although American sparkling wines legally bear the misleading label of “Champagne ”, they are also a good summertime choice. As I have said many times before, Champagne derives its name from its place of origin, hence labeling a bottle of sparkling wine that is not from Champagne , France as “Champagne ” is misleading. That said—American sparkling wines in the ten to fifteen dollar range tend to be more on the dry side and a little tart with citrus fruit flavors. Their dryness though, is what allows them to pair well with the fatty fish oils of smoked fish or compliment grilled chicken but they can also overpower soft mild cheeses. In many ways, they taste and “feel” like Crémant de Bourgogne, but drier.
Not all American sparkling wines are necessarily the produced in the classical Methode Champenoise as is French Champagne and other sparkling wines. The only way to know with certainty is if the label specifically states Methode Champenoise, otherwise it is not bottle-fermented. In spite of the labeling practices, American bubbly can be lots of fun with food or on its own.
Sparkling wines are also great to have as an aperitif before dinner. Unlike martinis or cocktails made with liquor, which dampen our taste buds, sparkling wines invigorate them. Any of these sprightly wines become elegant aperitifs with panache, by adding a splash of a liqueur or fresh fruit to the glass. An ounce or two of Crème de Cassis in a glass of Crémant de Bourgogne creates a flavor-rich Kir Royal. The Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco is the foundation for the famed “Bellini” that originated in Harry’s Bar in Venice , Italy in 1943. The original recipe uses about two ounces of freshly pureed white peaches and a dollop of pureed raspberries to a champagne flute of Prosecco. This lush aperitif is perfect before or after dinner. An acceptable alternative to fresh fruit purees, are juices similar in taste to peach or pear purees or one of the tropical fruit blends available. To create your own distinctive sparkling wine aperitif, add some slices of fresh fruit such as strawberries or orange slices to any of the sweeter sparkling wines. The drier wines are best with orange juice or sweet liqueurs. Whether as an aperitif or with food, sparkling wines illuminate any occasion.
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