Sangria - A Touch of Iberian Gusto!

Sangria is a flavor-rich thirst quencher that is enjoyed all year long throughout Spain and Portugal.  This delightful mélange of chilled wine and fresh fruit adds a touch of Iberian “gusto” to nibbling hors d’oeuvres or tapas ( see my food blog post - Nov. 2009  "Savor Tapas at Home" ) enjoying a light meal or just to savor alone.  Its easy drinking flavors revitalize our lust for pleasure, transforming the ordinary into extraordinary.

Recipes for sangria are as numerous as there are recipes for tapas.  Simplicity though is sangria’s trademark, a combination of wine and fruit with some embellishments for added flavor.   A basic recipe for a pitcher of red sangria includes a bottle of a dry red wine ( I use Gallo Hearty Burgundy), sangria syrup (see recipe below) and fresh fruit, served over ice in wine glass topped off with generous splash of club soda or ginger ale.  If you prefer a heartier version, add a tablespoon or two of an orange liqueur such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau to the pitcher. 

Combine all the ingredients in a pitcher (except the soda) and chill overnight or for at least two hours before serving.  Then serve over ice and top the glass off with your choice of club soda or ginger ale (my wife prefers club soda and I prefer ginger ale).  When serving sangria for a party or a group of friends I set the bottles of club soda and ginger ale out for my guests to make their sangria to suit their personal taste preferences.

For a refreshing summertime treat try Cava Sangria.  We discovered this version of sangria by chance in a restaurant in Barcelona called the “Loco Crab”.  The restaurant is situated at the very end of the Port Olympic pier, on both the upper and lower levels.  The upper level has floor to ceiling glass windows on three sides overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, plus an outdoor dining area.  Their very attentive wait-staff is multi-lingual and their menu, as you would expect, is filled with fresh fish and seafood recipes from all over Spain.  Savoring a glass of chilled cava sangria, overlooking the Mediterranean is a memory that is indelibly etched in the mind of this writer and one that is recalled whenever we have cava sangria at home.  

Cava Sangria

We tried both of these recipes, the one with white grape juice and the one with orange juice; each with or without orange liqueur.  Both are very close to the flavorful taste sensations we experienced in Barcelona.  My personal preference is the one with white grape juice and Cointreau.

Combine all of the flowing ingredients in a pitcher, stir well and serve immediately. 

1 bottle of well chilled extra dry, non-vintage Cava

¼ cup white grape juice or orange juice

4-6 tablespoons of sangria syrup to taste (Sangria syrup or simple syrup: add 2cups of sugar to one cup of boiling water to dissolve the sugar)

2 tablespoons of Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional)

One whole fresh orange thinly sliced

½ cup sliced or quartered fresh strawberries, approximately 4 strawberries

To serve, fill a wine glass with ice, hold it at an angle and slowly pour the Cava Sangria down the side of the glass.  To minimize the loss of the effervescence avoid pouring directly onto the ice if possible and garnish the glass with 2-3 fresh mint leaves.

The proportions of fruit juice, sangria syrup and fruit are to taste, as is the type of fruit used; add or subtract as you please.  Keep in mind the fresher the fruit the better the sangria.

Enjoy your Cava Sangria.  Questions or comments are always welcomed. 

Inexpensive Sparkling Wines

     As our days turn warmer and warmer, lay down the red wines, set aside the whites and uncork the refreshing enthusiasm of a chilled bottle of sparkling white wine.  Kid-wild, their effervescence dances to the tops of our glasses as carefree children frolicking on a trampoline.  Titillating, tiny bubbles burst into the air, gently spraying a fine wet mist on our lips, alluring our senses with the promise of an uncommon wine experience.

     Different wines have different ways of attracting our attention.  Intense, robust red wines command our attention with their acerbic tannins; lighter reds, such as Pinot Noir gently remind us of their presence with soft fruity acids.  White wines are almost apologetic in nature, when asking for consideration.  Furtively, they announce their presence with light acids and understated flavors in each sip.  Chilled sparkling white wines on the other hand are obvious attention getters; gay and frivolous they tickle our palates with each sip. The liveliness of their effervescent reveals itself in the energy of their bubbles, bursting with unbridled flamboyance.  Every mouthful of a sparkling wine exhilarates our senses as their fizz dances its way to the tops of our glasses.

     In Italy, sparkling wines bear the name “Spumanti” such as Asti Spumanti, from the village of Asti or the word Frizzante, generally associated with the name of a grape, such as “Moscato”, indicating a gentle effervescence.  “Prosecco” is an Italian sparkling wine that derives its name from the grape—Prosecco.  These sparkling wines are gentle on the palate and a little sweet.  Although they are not necessarily bottle-fermented, as Methode Champenoise requires, their “fizz” or bubbles are uniformly small and delicate. They are gentle, unpretentious wines with hints of mouthwatering, sugary acids underneath a layer of “yeasty earthiness”.  These wines also sell for about ten dollars a bottle and are great companions to have with green salads, cold cuts and cheese or just to sip by themselves.    

     Spain’s contribution to our medley of sparkling white wines is “Cava”.  Produced in the “Traditional Methode” or Methode Champenoise they vary in taste from very dry—“Brut” to “Seco”—sweet.  Cava is a great choice to keep on hand to have with food or to make as “Cava Sangria” (I will be happy to supply the recipe). On its own or as Sangria, chilled Cava is the perfect beverage to relax with on a hot afternoon as they do in Spain.   If I am sounding a bit biased toward this Spanish sparkler, it is because I am.  Cava is one of my favorite sparkling wines that I enjoy all year round with or without food.  As with the other sparkling wines from France and Italy, Cava is also available for less than ten dollars a bottle.

     Although American sparkling wines legally bear the misleading label of “Champagne”, they are also a good summertime choice.  As I have said many times before, Champagne derives its name from its place of origin, hence labeling a bottle of sparkling wine that is not from Champagne, France as “Champagne” is misleading.  That said—American sparkling wines in the ten to fifteen dollar range tend to be more on the dry side and a little tart with citrus fruit flavors.  Their dryness though, is what allows them to pair well with the fatty fish oils of smoked fish or compliment grilled chicken but they can also overpower soft mild cheeses.  In many ways, they taste and “feel” like Crémant de Bourgogne, but drier.   

     Not all American sparkling wines are necessarily the produced in the classical Methode Champenoise as is French Champagne and other sparkling wines.  The only way to know with certainty is if the label specifically states Methode Champenoise, otherwise it is not bottle-fermented.  In spite of the labeling practices, American bubbly can be lots of fun with food or on its own.   

     Sparkling wines are also great to have as an aperitif before dinner.  Unlike martinis or cocktails made with liquor, which dampen our taste buds, sparkling wines invigorate them.  Any of these sprightly wines become elegant aperitifs with panache, by adding a splash of a liqueur or fresh fruit to the glass.  An ounce or two of Crème de Cassis in a glass of Crémant de Bourgogne creates a flavor-rich Kir Royal.  The Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco is the foundation for the famed “Bellini” that originated in Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy in 1943.  The original recipe uses about two ounces of freshly pureed white peaches and a dollop of pureed raspberries to a champagne flute of Prosecco.  This lush aperitif is perfect before or after dinner.  An acceptable alternative to fresh fruit purees, are juices similar in taste to peach or pear purees or one of the tropical fruit blends available. To create your own distinctive sparkling wine aperitif, add some slices of fresh fruit such as strawberries or orange slices to any of the sweeter sparkling wines.  The drier wines are best with orange juice or sweet liqueurs.   Whether as an aperitif or with food, sparkling wines illuminate any occasion.

      With lighter summer meals and hot days ahead, refreshingly delicate sparkling wines are the perfect choice to sip alone or to have with food.  Their low levels of acidity and hints of sugar invite the introduction of leafy green salads, grilled chicken breast, tuna salad, fresh fruit, cheese and much, much more.  They are perfect summertime companions to any meal or for any occasion. This summer, let the kid-wild effervescence of chilled sparkling wine ease the warm days and cool-off the summer nights.

Beyond Chardonnay

 

In the land of once-upon-a-time, there lived a man haunted by the beguiling flavors of a white wine. Much the same as Diogenes was obsessed with finding a truly “honest man”, our man searched and searched for a white wine to fulfill the captivating promises of Chardonnay. Lured by the prospect of savoring rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla oak flavors he relentlessly pursued his quest.

Undaunted, his odyssey carried him to far away places that claimed to hold bottles and barrels of the prized Chardonnay. Searching, ever searching throughout the vineyards, wineries and countless tasting rooms in California, Washington State and Oregon, he wearily trekked. Tired and tattered he journeyed onward, first to the far-off wine growing regions in France, then to the Coonawarra in Australia and finally to the remote island of New Zealand—all to no avail.

“Dionysus, the god of fertility and wine must have cursed me.” He muttered aloud. Then, looking upward, drawing upon strength he did not know he still possessed, his eyes peering into the sky, he shouted. “How you mock me Dionysus, Oh how you mock me in my pursuit of the golden beauty that I seek. I have traveled far and I have tasted many wines, none of which is the Chardonnay that I crave. But, nevertheless, I have found wines that are better than Chardonnay! I have found wines from other grapes that are worthy of drinking with many dishes and…they delight my senses! I have found opulent wines…aromatic wines…and wines of singularity from other grapes. I have enjoyed many drinking pleasures that I longed for from Chardonnay in other white wines. I have reveled in the richness of Viognier, savored the maturity of Riesling and frolicked with the youthful crispness of Sauvignon Blanc. It is I who mock you Dionysus, from this day forth, with each sip of my “new” white wines.”

Now, the time has come for my confession. I am that man, who like Diogenes on his quest to find a truly honest man, have searched endlessly for a rich, creamy, and oaken Chardonnay with butterscotch and vanilla flavors. This has not been a trivial or whimsical pursuit on my part. For years, I have been trying to find a Chardonnay that would please my wife who prefers to drink good Scotch to my monomaniacal preference for wine. I have spent countless sums of money for Chardonnays that promise to meet her taste expectations of oak, vanilla and butterscotch flavors. To add to my dilemma she claims to have had such a Chardonnay in the past. As if this was not enough to compel me to satisfy her fancy, another man introduced it to her before she knew me. Now, not only is my knowledge of wine put to the test but also my male ego demands the discovery of that incomparable tasting Chardonnay.

Still another confession; I have yet to find this mythical tasting Chardonnay. In my vain search to match the taste of this other man’s Chardonnay, I have showered her with a collection of white wines that have all but dissolved her memory of “that” Chardonnay—or so she says.

Viognier, the Pearl of the Rhone Valley

This is my best find. It has nearly absolved my quest for Chardonnay. For many years the Viognier grape, blended with other grapes has been the hidden pearl of the luscious white wines from the Rhone Valley in France. On its own and unfettered by other grapes, Viognier coats the palate with the provocative, soothing texture of crème fraiche. Aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle waft from a glass full of this Rhone Valley jewel. A good and inexpensive example of Viognier from France is Viognier de Campuget.

In addition to the many French producers of white wines from the Rhone Valley, American producers known as the “Rhone Rangers” in Paso Robles California have unveiled Viognier as a grape of quality and distinction on its own. They too are also blending it with the other Rhone Valley grapes, Marsanne and Rousanne to produce lush white wines. Paso Robles producers to look for who are making sophisticated Rhone blends and Viognier varietals are; Tablas Creek, making a white Rhone blend with 59% Viognier called Cote de Tablas Blanc; also Anglim Winery, Clautier Vineyard and the Midnight Cellars Winery and Vineyards are producing Viogniers that are all full of flavors one hopes for in Chardonnay, with personalities of their own.

The Aristocratic Riesling

One of the four “noble grapes” Riesling deserves more attention than it receives as a versatile wine of distinction. It is one of the primary grapes of France and Germany’s common border area, once known as Alsace/Lorraine. They are age worthy wines, matured in wood barrels, tinting them with the color of pale dried straw. On the palate, Rieslings evoke the earthy flavors of stone fruits such as apricots and peaches. Always well balanced and comfortable with many lighter food dishes, this white wine can also age and reward your patience with uncommon flavors. From the French side of the Alsace border region, it is somewhat dry with medium body. The German versions tend toward the sweeter side.

The Rieslings from Washington State and Oregon are in-between the French and German offerings, not as dry as the French version and not as sweet as the German styles. Hogue Cellars in Washington State produces a delightful, young Riesling that coats the mouth with a patina of sugar that quickly dissolves from its mild apricot and peach fruit acids. It is a perfect compliment for that hard to pair curry dish as well as a friendly companion for summer greens with fruit or tuna fish salad. Discovering the many different variations of this noble grape will open up new vistas for food and wine pairings to anyone who makes the voyage.

Likeably Crisp Sauvignon Blanc

There is always something to like in Sauvignon Blanc. It is a light, young, crisp wine with an inner presence of lingering green apples. Good examples of a Sauvignon Blanc will be lean and trim, not fettered with too many aromas or taste sensations.

The producing countries of origin normally follow a stylistic pattern of how dry or how crisp the wine will be on the palate. The Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre in France, for example will have a smooth finish and still maintain a crispness that will flatter fish dishes. The American version will be a little lighter in body and drier to taste. New Zealand’s versions tend to be lighter and drier still. All of these wines will still possess the basic underlying characteristics of green apple but some, other than the French, will also exhibit tropical fruit flavors similar to pineapple.

No matter which country of origin, Sauvignon Blanc is a perfectly refreshing summer wine with or without food. It also makes a great aperitif called, “Kir”. Just add one or two ounces of Crème de Cassis to a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and enjoy the wonderful fruity acids of the wine mingling with the rich creamy texture of the Crème de Cassis.

Like Diogenes and haunted by the specter of “that” Chardonnay I will remain in the land of once-upon-a-time, forever searching for that incomparable taste. Until then I take heart in the delightful pleasures of other white wines.

The Spanish Wine of Distinction

Sherry

     The common misconception of Sherry today, is that all Sherry is a sweet, creamy wine similar to Harvey’s Bristol Cream. This is not the Sherry that Edgar Allen Poe’s, Fortunato, in “The Cask of Amontillado”, perilously but avidly traipsed through dank underground caverns, filled with “nitre” to taste.

    Sherry devolved into this sweet creamy styled wine to meet the needs of a mass consumer export market and as a result lacks the nuance and complexity that fine Spanish Sherry is endowed with. “Real” Sherry is a unique wine from Spain’s bygone era of an empire with conquistadors sailing the seven seas in search of treasure and new trade routes. This Sherry, the Sherry of old Spain is an intriguing and often times a beguiling white wine; and then there are times it is an amber hued opulent wine to savor.

     As with fine Champagne, Sherry takes its name from its place of origin, Jerez de la Frontera, a town in southwest Spain. The name “Jerez” morphed into “Sherry” by the British, those age-old lovers of all wines, who mispronounced the name Jerez, as Sherry; as it is known today. “Jerez”, its proper Spanish name, is a fanciful wine that is delightful with food, as it was originally intended, or as an aperitif. Also similar to fine French Champagne, Jerez requires long and special treatment, setting it apart from ordinary wine. Some forms of Jerez mature in barrels under a protective coating of yeast called the flor, imparting fine and delicate qualities to it that other wines do not have. Almost all Jerez is made from a unique, time consuming blending system called solera, in which older barrels of Jerez are topped off with younger ones of the same style. The solera manner of transferring young Jerez from recent vintages to barrels of Jerez from older vintages, year after year, is similar to French vintners blending different grapes to produce outstanding wines in Bordeaux France.

     The Andalusia region of Spain, where Jerez comes from is steeped in the culture and tradition of “old” Spain, dating back to its Moorish and Arabic origins. One folk tale attributed to Jerez is how Tapas, which is the Spanish practice of serving small plates of food started. The word tapa means lid or cover. What we call Tapas today started long ago in Spanish bars as a practical means of keeping fruit flies off of a glass of Jerez with a simple piece of bread. This eventually led to small amounts of food on the bread, such as olives, cheese, ham and sausage, to encourage more drinking. Today there are innumerable Tascas (bars that offer Tapas) throughout Spain offering a vast array of delectables known as “Tapas”.
    Jerez is fortified with additional alcohol after all of the grape’s natural sugar has been converted to alcohol, making it a naturally dry, not sweet, white wine. There are two basic types of Jerez, Fino and Oloroso. Usually the finest batches of grapes are reserved for Fino because it is fortified with less alcohol than Oloroso and it is the most delicate of all the different versions of Jerez.

The Beautiful Fino and the Beastly Flor


     The Fino style of Jerez matures in wood barrels under a fascinating protective covering of yeast called the flor. The yeast or the flor grows naturally on the surface of the wine in the barrel, creating a beastly, foamy layer of bubbling yeast. The flor prevents the wine from oxidizing and lives on the air in the barrel and feeds off of the alcohol and glycerin in the wine. Underneath the unsightly layer of yeast a magical transformation takes place. Beneath the murky covering of the flor is a beautiful pale, straw-like colored wine that is thinner and more delicate than it otherwise would be and is teeming with a profusion of extraordinary aromas and pungent flavors.
     Once the Fino loses the protective coating of the flor by bottling, it becomes susceptible to oxidation spoilage and loses its youthful exuberance. To experience Fino at its peak, it should be consumed as fresh from the barrel as possible. Unfortunately, it is impossible for us to savor the fresh, pungent flavors of Fino straight from the barrels. Freshness aside, Finos are worth experiencing to discover the real dry, elegant taste of Jerez.
     Another version of Fino is Manzanilla, made only in Sanlúcar de Barrameda on the western coast of Spain. Sanlúcar de Barrameda is one of the three towns that make up what is know as the “sherry triangle” in Andalusia; the other two towns are Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto de Santa Maria. The Jerez of Sanlúcar de Barrameda is heavily influenced by the moist, salty air of the Atlantic Ocean that fosters a thicker flor in the barrel. Manzanilla also has a pale-straw hue, as other Finos, but is the driest and most pungent version of Fino, owing to the salt-water air in the flor. This too should be consumed at its freshest to fully appreciate the aromatics of the flor enhanced by the salty sea air.
    Oloroso on the other hand is a Jerez that we can enjoy now and one that is at its best long after bottling. This version of Jerez is traditionally barrel aged, without the protective coating of the flor and is fortified with more alcohol than Fino. Since Oloroso has already been exposed to oxygen during its maturation it can age almost indefinitely in an unopened bottle. Depending on the length of aging in the barrel, the colors of Oloroso range from shimmering amber to luxuriant mahogany. It is lush and full bodied, with wonderful aromas of walnuts and still dry to the taste without the tart pungency of Fino. Unlike Fino, that is best fresh, we can enjoy the soft, rich, nutty flavors of Oloroso long after it has been bottled in Spain.
     In-between the pungent taste of Fino and the mellow Oloroso, is my favorite Jerez and also the wine that Fortunato lost his life trying to taste—Amontillado. Initially, Amontillado is made as Fino, maturing under the flor, and then allowed to age further without the oxygen depriving cover of the flor. The result is a marvelous, amber hued cross between Fino and Oloroso for us to savor as often as we like. Amontillado combines the distinctive pungency and delicacy created by the flor with the richness of Oloroso and manifests its own unique hazelnut aromas and nutty flavors. Happily, we do not have to undergo a perilous journey through musty caverns to relish the flavors of Amontillado.
     Yet another Jerez that starts off as Fino, aging with the flor and then maturing without it is Manzanilla Pasado. This is darker and fuller bodied than Manzanilla but is still crisp and pungent because of the thickness of the flor in Sanlúcar de Barrameda where it is made.
    The Jerez of Spain’s glorious past is not today’s sugary version that we associate it with but it is the pungently dry, delicate Fino or the rich, tawny Oloroso or the variations of Amontillado, Manzanilla or Manzanilla Pasado in-between. These are the intriguing wines that Spanish aristocrats sipped, while lounging on the patios of their gleaming white haciendas, overlooking the mountains of Andalusia or the cobalt seas of the Costa del Sol, while listening to the reverberating strings of Spanish guitars and the clacking castanets of flamenco dancers in the background. These are the tastes of Jerez!

Ole!