Beyond Chardonnay

 

In the land of once-upon-a-time, there lived a man haunted by the beguiling flavors of a white wine. Much the same as Diogenes was obsessed with finding a truly “honest man”, our man searched and searched for a white wine to fulfill the captivating promises of Chardonnay. Lured by the prospect of savoring rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla oak flavors he relentlessly pursued his quest.

Undaunted, his odyssey carried him to far away places that claimed to hold bottles and barrels of the prized Chardonnay. Searching, ever searching throughout the vineyards, wineries and countless tasting rooms in California, Washington State and Oregon, he wearily trekked. Tired and tattered he journeyed onward, first to the far-off wine growing regions in France, then to the Coonawarra in Australia and finally to the remote island of New Zealand—all to no avail.

“Dionysus, the god of fertility and wine must have cursed me.” He muttered aloud. Then, looking upward, drawing upon strength he did not know he still possessed, his eyes peering into the sky, he shouted. “How you mock me Dionysus, Oh how you mock me in my pursuit of the golden beauty that I seek. I have traveled far and I have tasted many wines, none of which is the Chardonnay that I crave. But, nevertheless, I have found wines that are better than Chardonnay! I have found wines from other grapes that are worthy of drinking with many dishes and…they delight my senses! I have found opulent wines…aromatic wines…and wines of singularity from other grapes. I have enjoyed many drinking pleasures that I longed for from Chardonnay in other white wines. I have reveled in the richness of Viognier, savored the maturity of Riesling and frolicked with the youthful crispness of Sauvignon Blanc. It is I who mock you Dionysus, from this day forth, with each sip of my “new” white wines.”

Now, the time has come for my confession. I am that man, who like Diogenes on his quest to find a truly honest man, have searched endlessly for a rich, creamy, and oaken Chardonnay with butterscotch and vanilla flavors. This has not been a trivial or whimsical pursuit on my part. For years, I have been trying to find a Chardonnay that would please my wife who prefers to drink good Scotch to my monomaniacal preference for wine. I have spent countless sums of money for Chardonnays that promise to meet her taste expectations of oak, vanilla and butterscotch flavors. To add to my dilemma she claims to have had such a Chardonnay in the past. As if this was not enough to compel me to satisfy her fancy, another man introduced it to her before she knew me. Now, not only is my knowledge of wine put to the test but also my male ego demands the discovery of that incomparable tasting Chardonnay.

Still another confession; I have yet to find this mythical tasting Chardonnay. In my vain search to match the taste of this other man’s Chardonnay, I have showered her with a collection of white wines that have all but dissolved her memory of “that” Chardonnay—or so she says.

Viognier, the Pearl of the Rhone Valley

This is my best find. It has nearly absolved my quest for Chardonnay. For many years the Viognier grape, blended with other grapes has been the hidden pearl of the luscious white wines from the Rhone Valley in France. On its own and unfettered by other grapes, Viognier coats the palate with the provocative, soothing texture of crème fraiche. Aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle waft from a glass full of this Rhone Valley jewel. A good and inexpensive example of Viognier from France is Viognier de Campuget.

In addition to the many French producers of white wines from the Rhone Valley, American producers known as the “Rhone Rangers” in Paso Robles California have unveiled Viognier as a grape of quality and distinction on its own. They too are also blending it with the other Rhone Valley grapes, Marsanne and Rousanne to produce lush white wines. Paso Robles producers to look for who are making sophisticated Rhone blends and Viognier varietals are; Tablas Creek, making a white Rhone blend with 59% Viognier called Cote de Tablas Blanc; also Anglim Winery, Clautier Vineyard and the Midnight Cellars Winery and Vineyards are producing Viogniers that are all full of flavors one hopes for in Chardonnay, with personalities of their own.

The Aristocratic Riesling

One of the four “noble grapes” Riesling deserves more attention than it receives as a versatile wine of distinction. It is one of the primary grapes of France and Germany’s common border area, once known as Alsace/Lorraine. They are age worthy wines, matured in wood barrels, tinting them with the color of pale dried straw. On the palate, Rieslings evoke the earthy flavors of stone fruits such as apricots and peaches. Always well balanced and comfortable with many lighter food dishes, this white wine can also age and reward your patience with uncommon flavors. From the French side of the Alsace border region, it is somewhat dry with medium body. The German versions tend toward the sweeter side.

The Rieslings from Washington State and Oregon are in-between the French and German offerings, not as dry as the French version and not as sweet as the German styles. Hogue Cellars in Washington State produces a delightful, young Riesling that coats the mouth with a patina of sugar that quickly dissolves from its mild apricot and peach fruit acids. It is a perfect compliment for that hard to pair curry dish as well as a friendly companion for summer greens with fruit or tuna fish salad. Discovering the many different variations of this noble grape will open up new vistas for food and wine pairings to anyone who makes the voyage.

Likeably Crisp Sauvignon Blanc

There is always something to like in Sauvignon Blanc. It is a light, young, crisp wine with an inner presence of lingering green apples. Good examples of a Sauvignon Blanc will be lean and trim, not fettered with too many aromas or taste sensations.

The producing countries of origin normally follow a stylistic pattern of how dry or how crisp the wine will be on the palate. The Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre in France, for example will have a smooth finish and still maintain a crispness that will flatter fish dishes. The American version will be a little lighter in body and drier to taste. New Zealand’s versions tend to be lighter and drier still. All of these wines will still possess the basic underlying characteristics of green apple but some, other than the French, will also exhibit tropical fruit flavors similar to pineapple.

No matter which country of origin, Sauvignon Blanc is a perfectly refreshing summer wine with or without food. It also makes a great aperitif called, “Kir”. Just add one or two ounces of Crème de Cassis to a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and enjoy the wonderful fruity acids of the wine mingling with the rich creamy texture of the Crème de Cassis.

Like Diogenes and haunted by the specter of “that” Chardonnay I will remain in the land of once-upon-a-time, forever searching for that incomparable taste. Until then I take heart in the delightful pleasures of other white wines.