Tuesday, February 15, 2011

The Eloquence of California-French

     In the language of wines, the eloquence of California-French is beautifully expressed in three wines I tasted from Paso Robles. These are rich, provocative wines of incomparable style. Each one is emblematic of the term, California-French as an apt description of their unique character. They are alluring wines possessing the delicate balance of tannins and acids of French wines and the distinctive rich texture of wines from Paso Robles. They are decidedly—California-French!
Bernard and Stephan Asseo, Winemaker
     The 2006, Estate Cuvée from L’Aventure is a wine of singular character and style. It is a unique blend of 49% Syrah (a mainstay of the Rhone Valley) and 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Petit Verdot (staples of the Bordeaux region), defying comparisons to wines from the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux, France. On the nose there are enticing aromas of black tea, currant and smoke. These same wonderful aromas are transformed onto the palate as titillating taste sensations for added pleasure. L’Aventure’s Estate Cuvée is a well-balanced, luscious wine to compliment juicy steaks, hearty beef stews and other robust beef dishes.
     Another full-bodied California-French gem from Paso Robles is the 2006 Cuvée des Trois Cépages (Vintage of Three Types of Vines) from RN Estate Vineyards. This wine is a classic blend of varietals used in making wine on the left bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The Cuvée des Trois Cépages “feels” heavier in the mouth than most Bordeaux blends; with rich black cherry flavors and hints of black tea and currant that coat the palate from the first sip to the last
mouthful. The tannins and acids are very well balanced, with a touch more tannin than acid, which is just as it should be for a wine with this blend of grapes. The “feel” and texture of the Cuvée des Trois Cépages is that of a more mature wine. Layered with nuances of black fruit and subtleties of non-fruit flavors, it is a sensuous taste adventure for oenophiles and novices alike. Savor this big wine with beef, steaks and other robust dishes such as braised leg of lamb.

     Completing our trio of singular wines from Paso Robles is the 2006, Cote de Tablas Blanc, from Tablas Creek Vineyards. This is an intriguing white wine, blended with organically grown Rhone Valley varietals: Viognier, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. On the palate luscious tropical fruit acids coalesce with rich butterscotch flavors, thrilling the palate with unexpected taste sensations from a white wine. The Cote de Tablas Blanc is a flavor-rich sipping wine to relish alone or with rich oily fish such as Chilean Sea Bass or Monkfish.

 California-French wines, such as these defy the comparative labels attributed to them as “Rhone Clones” and “Bordeaux blends”. With their tantalizing layers of flavor and rich textures they are anything but clones of something else or “just like” other wines. They are uniquely California-French!

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