Bernard Berlin's World of Wine and Food

Millo Vello - A Wine Lover’s Restaurant

2011-08-27T06:40:00.002-07:00

For those of us who believe that the wine with our food is as important as the food itself take heart. There is a restaurant in Barcelona, Spain whose owner is as passionate about his wines as he is about the quality of the food he serves. The restaurant is Millo Vello, where savoring delicious food, “prepared for the wine” is an exciting taste experience awaiting everyone.

This friendly, neighborhood restaurant, not far from the hustle and bustle of La Ramblas will delight the most discriminating palate with such titillating international fare as a mouthwatering, meatless Moussaka, baked slowly for two hours, a platter of tender slices of Tuna Sushi Carpaccio, Salmon or Monkfish Carpaccio plus some enticing Catalan specialties of grilled squid with luscious black rice or bacalao (salt cod) with asparagus and more.

The wine list at Millo Vello is an exciting, virtual wine tasting tour of Spain with wines from Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Penedes, Cataluña, Bierzo and also wines from lesser known wine producing regions. These wines are not only excellent examples of their regions they are also blended with some intriguing combinations of grapes. For example, a robust red wine made by Finca Villacreses, blended with Tinta Fina, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, from my favorite Spanish wine producing region Ribera del Duero, a complex Garnacha, Merlot and Mazuelo from winemaker Mas Rabell, and a seductive combination of Garnacha and Merlot, produced by Embruix to name just a few.

One could not hope for a restaurateur with as much knowledge and passion for wine as Manuel Salgado. His philosophy is simple. “I am only satisfied when both the food and the wine are enjoyed— not one without the other.” His devotion to serving the right wine with his dishes is such that he often adjusts recipes based upon the wine someone orders with their food; a rare restaurant practice I personally experienced. “I cook for the wine” he said smiling sheepishly when I mentioned a difference in the seasoning of my black rice dish from that listed on the menu description.
Manuel “grew up with the grape”, making wine on his family’s vineyard in Verin Spain. This is where his “love affair” with wine began. As the youngest son of three, he started working in the family vineyard at the tender age of four with his father; who to this day still tills the soil with a horse drawn tiller. Today, his knowledge and reputation as an oenophile is such that he is often sought out by wineries in Spain for his opinion of their wines.

There are many fine restaurants in Barcelona that I have enjoyed and written about. Some are noteworthy for their food others for their wine and still others for their outstanding service or ambiance. Few are as memorable as Millo Vello for both food and wine.

Olé Manuel!

Millo Vello

CALLE SARDEÑA, 48-62

08005 Barcelona, Spain

METRO MARINA

Sangria - A Touch of Iberian Gusto!

2011-06-15T07:37:00.005-07:00

Sangria is a flavor-rich thirst quencher that is enjoyed all year long throughout Spain and Portugal. This delightful mélange of chilled wine and fresh fruit adds a touch of Iberian “gusto” to nibbling hors d’oeuvres or tapas ( see my food blog post - Nov. 2009 "Savor Tapas at Home" ) enjoying a light meal or just to savor alone. Its easy drinking flavors revitalize our lust for pleasure, transforming the ordinary into extraordinary.

Recipes for sangria are as numerous as there are recipes for tapas. Simplicity though is sangria’s trademark, a combination of wine and fruit with some embellishments for added flavor. A basic recipe for a pitcher of red sangria includes a bottle of a dry red wine ( I use Gallo Hearty Burgundy), sangria syrup (see recipe below) and fresh fruit, served over ice in wine glass topped off with generous splash of club soda or ginger ale. If you prefer a heartier version, add a tablespoon or two of an orange liqueur such as Grand Marnier or Cointreau to the pitcher.

Combine all the ingredients in a pitcher (except the soda) and chill overnight or for at least two hours before serving. Then serve over ice and top the glass off with your choice of club soda or ginger ale (my wife prefers club soda and I prefer ginger ale). When serving sangria for a party or a group of friends I set the bottles of club soda and ginger ale out for my guests to make their sangria to suit their personal taste preferences.

For a refreshing summertime treat try Cava Sangria. We discovered this version of sangria by chance in a restaurant in Barcelona called the “Loco Crab”. The restaurant is situated at the very end of the Port Olympic pier, on both the upper and lower levels. The upper level has floor to ceiling glass windows on three sides overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, plus an outdoor dining area. Their very attentive wait-staff is multi-lingual and their menu, as you would expect, is filled with fresh fish and seafood recipes from all over Spain. Savoring a glass of chilled cava sangria, overlooking the Mediterranean is a memory that is indelibly etched in the mind of this writer and one that is recalled whenever we have cava sangria at home.

Cava Sangria

We tried both of these recipes, the one with white grape juice and the one with orange juice; each with or without orange liqueur. Both are very close to the flavorful taste sensations we experienced in Barcelona. My personal preference is the one with white grape juice and Cointreau.

Combine all of the flowing ingredients in a pitcher, stir well and serve immediately.

1 bottle of well chilled extra dry, non-vintage Cava

¼ cup white grape juice or orange juice

4-6 tablespoons of sangria syrup to taste (Sangria syrup or simple syrup: add 2cups of sugar to one cup of boiling water to dissolve the sugar)

2 tablespoons of Grand Marnier or Cointreau (optional)

One whole fresh orange thinly sliced

½ cup sliced or quartered fresh strawberries, approximately 4 strawberries

To serve, fill a wine glass with ice, hold it at an angle and slowly pour the Cava Sangria down the side of the glass. To minimize the loss of the effervescence avoid pouring directly onto the ice if possible and garnish the glass with 2-3 fresh mint leaves.

The proportions of fruit juice, sangria syrup and fruit are to taste, as is the type of fruit used; add or subtract as you please. Keep in mind the fresher the fruit the better the sangria.

Enjoy your Cava Sangria. Questions or comments are always welcomed.

Inexpensive Sparkling Wines

2011-06-13T06:33:00.001-07:00

As our days turn warmer and warmer, lay down the red wines, set aside the whites and uncork the refreshing enthusiasm of a chilled bottle of sparkling white wine. Kid-wild, their effervescence dances to the tops of our glasses as carefree children frolicking on a trampoline. Titillating, tiny bubbles burst into the air, gently spraying a fine wet mist on our lips, alluring our senses with the promise of an uncommon wine experience.

Different wines have different ways of attracting our attention. Intense, robust red wines command our attention with their acerbic tannins; lighter reds, such as Pinot Noir gently remind us of their presence with soft fruity acids. White wines are almost apologetic in nature, when asking for consideration. Furtively, they announce their presence with light acids and understated flavors in each sip. Chilled sparkling white wines on the other hand are obvious attention getters; gay and frivolous they tickle our palates with each sip. The liveliness of their effervescent reveals itself in the energy of their bubbles, bursting with unbridled flamboyance. Every mouthful of a sparkling wine exhilarates our senses as their fizz dances its way to the tops of our glasses.

In Italy, sparkling wines bear the name “Spumanti” such as Asti Spumanti, from the village of Asti or the word Frizzante, generally associated with the name of a grape, such as “Moscato”, indicating a gentle effervescence. “Prosecco” is an Italian sparkling wine that derives its name from the grape—Prosecco. These sparkling wines are gentle on the palate and a little sweet. Although they are not necessarily bottle-fermented, as Methode Champenoise requires, their “fizz” or bubbles are uniformly small and delicate. They are gentle, unpretentious wines with hints of mouthwatering, sugary acids underneath a layer of “yeasty earthiness”. These wines also sell for about ten dollars a bottle and are great companions to have with green salads, cold cuts and cheese or just to sip by themselves.

Spain

’s contribution to our medley of sparkling white wines is “Cava”. Produced in the “Traditional Methode” or Methode Champenoise they vary in taste from very dry—“Brut” to “Seco”—sweet. Cava is a great choice to keep on hand to have with food or to make as “Cava Sangria” (I will be happy to supply the recipe). On its own or as Sangria, chilled Cava is the perfect beverage to relax with on a hot afternoon as they do in Spain. If I am sounding a bit biased toward this Spanish sparkler, it is because I am. Cava is one of my favorite sparkling wines that I enjoy all year round with or without food. As with the other sparkling wines from France and Italy, Cava is also available for less than ten dollars a bottle.

Although American sparkling wines legally bear the misleading label of “Champagne”, they are also a good summertime choice. As I have said many times before, Champagne derives its name from its place of origin, hence labeling a bottle of sparkling wine that is not from Champagne, France as “Champagne” is misleading. That said—American sparkling wines in the ten to fifteen dollar range tend to be more on the dry side and a little tart with citrus fruit flavors. Their dryness though, is what allows them to pair well with the fatty fish oils of smoked fish or compliment grilled chicken but they can also overpower soft mild cheeses. In many ways, they taste and “feel” like Crémant de Bourgogne, but drier.

Not all American sparkling wines are necessarily the produced in the classical Methode Champenoise as is French Champagne and other sparkling wines. The only way to know with certainty is if the label specifically states Methode Champenoise, otherwise it is not bottle-fermented. In spite of the labeling practices, American bubbly can be lots of fun with food or on its own.

Sparkling wines are also great to have as an aperitif before dinner. Unlike martinis or cocktails made with liquor, which dampen our taste buds, sparkling wines invigorate them. Any of these sprightly wines become elegant aperitifs with panache, by adding a splash of a liqueur or fresh fruit to the glass. An ounce or two of Crème de Cassis in a glass of Crémant de Bourgogne creates a flavor-rich Kir Royal. The Italian sparkling wine, Prosecco is the foundation for the famed “Bellini” that originated in Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy in 1943. The original recipe uses about two ounces of freshly pureed white peaches and a dollop of pureed raspberries to a champagne flute of Prosecco. This lush aperitif is perfect before or after dinner. An acceptable alternative to fresh fruit purees, are juices similar in taste to peach or pear purees or one of the tropical fruit blends available. To create your own distinctive sparkling wine aperitif, add some slices of fresh fruit such as strawberries or orange slices to any of the sweeter sparkling wines. The drier wines are best with orange juice or sweet liqueurs. Whether as an aperitif or with food, sparkling wines illuminate any occasion.

With lighter summer meals and hot days ahead, refreshingly delicate sparkling wines are the perfect choice to sip alone or to have with food. Their low levels of acidity and hints of sugar invite the introduction of leafy green salads, grilled chicken breast, tuna salad, fresh fruit, cheese and much, much more. They are perfect summertime companions to any meal or for any occasion. This summer, let the kid-wild effervescence of chilled sparkling wine ease the warm days and cool-off the summer nights.

Beyond Chardonnay

2011-06-09T07:59:00.000-07:00

In the land of once-upon-a-time, there lived a man haunted by the beguiling flavors of a white wine. Much the same as Diogenes was obsessed with finding a truly “honest man”, our man searched and searched for a white wine to fulfill the captivating promises of Chardonnay. Lured by the prospect of savoring rich, creamy butterscotch and vanilla oak flavors he relentlessly pursued his quest.

Undaunted, his odyssey carried him to far away places that claimed to hold bottles and barrels of the prized Chardonnay. Searching, ever searching throughout the vineyards, wineries and countless tasting rooms in California, Washington State and Oregon, he wearily trekked. Tired and tattered he journeyed onward, first to the far-off wine growing regions in France, then to the Coonawarra in Australia and finally to the remote island of New Zealand—all to no avail.

“Dionysus, the god of fertility and wine must have cursed me.” He muttered aloud. Then, looking upward, drawing upon strength he did not know he still possessed, his eyes peering into the sky, he shouted. “How you mock me Dionysus, Oh how you mock me in my pursuit of the golden beauty that I seek. I have traveled far and I have tasted many wines, none of which is the Chardonnay that I crave. But, nevertheless, I have found wines that are better than Chardonnay! I have found wines from other grapes that are worthy of drinking with many dishes and…they delight my senses! I have found opulent wines…aromatic wines…and wines of singularity from other grapes. I have enjoyed many drinking pleasures that I longed for from Chardonnay in other white wines. I have reveled in the richness of Viognier, savored the maturity of Riesling and frolicked with the youthful crispness of Sauvignon Blanc. It is I who mock you Dionysus, from this day forth, with each sip of my “new” white wines.”

Now, the time has come for my confession. I am that man, who like Diogenes on his quest to find a truly honest man, have searched endlessly for a rich, creamy, and oaken Chardonnay with butterscotch and vanilla flavors. This has not been a trivial or whimsical pursuit on my part. For years, I have been trying to find a Chardonnay that would please my wife who prefers to drink good Scotch to my monomaniacal preference for wine. I have spent countless sums of money for Chardonnays that promise to meet her taste expectations of oak, vanilla and butterscotch flavors. To add to my dilemma she claims to have had such a Chardonnay in the past. As if this was not enough to compel me to satisfy her fancy, another man introduced it to her before she knew me. Now, not only is my knowledge of wine put to the test but also my male ego demands the discovery of that incomparable tasting Chardonnay.

Still another confession; I have yet to find this mythical tasting Chardonnay. In my vain search to match the taste of this other man’s Chardonnay, I have showered her with a collection of white wines that have all but dissolved her memory of “that” Chardonnay—or so she says.

Viognier, the Pearl of the Rhone Valley

This is my best find. It has nearly absolved my quest for Chardonnay. For many years the Viognier grape, blended with other grapes has been the hidden pearl of the luscious white wines from the Rhone Valley in France. On its own and unfettered by other grapes, Viognier coats the palate with the provocative, soothing texture of crème fraiche. Aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle waft from a glass full of this Rhone Valley jewel. A good and inexpensive example of Viognier from France is Viognier de Campuget.

In addition to the many French producers of white wines from the Rhone Valley, American producers known as the “Rhone Rangers” in Paso Robles California have unveiled Viognier as a grape of quality and distinction on its own. They too are also blending it with the other Rhone Valley grapes, Marsanne and Rousanne to produce lush white wines. Paso Robles producers to look for who are making sophisticated Rhone blends and Viognier varietals are; Tablas Creek, making a white Rhone blend with 59% Viognier called Cote de Tablas Blanc; also Anglim Winery, Clautier Vineyard and the Midnight Cellars Winery and Vineyards are producing Viogniers that are all full of flavors one hopes for in Chardonnay, with personalities of their own.

The Aristocratic Riesling

One of the four “noble grapes” Riesling deserves more attention than it receives as a versatile wine of distinction. It is one of the primary grapes of France and Germany’s common border area, once known as Alsace/Lorraine. They are age worthy wines, matured in wood barrels, tinting them with the color of pale dried straw. On the palate, Rieslings evoke the earthy flavors of stone fruits such as apricots and peaches. Always well balanced and comfortable with many lighter food dishes, this white wine can also age and reward your patience with uncommon flavors. From the French side of the Alsace border region, it is somewhat dry with medium body. The German versions tend toward the sweeter side.

The Rieslings from Washington State and Oregon are in-between the French and German offerings, not as dry as the French version and not as sweet as the German styles. Hogue Cellars in Washington State produces a delightful, young Riesling that coats the mouth with a patina of sugar that quickly dissolves from its mild apricot and peach fruit acids. It is a perfect compliment for that hard to pair curry dish as well as a friendly companion for summer greens with fruit or tuna fish salad. Discovering the many different variations of this noble grape will open up new vistas for food and wine pairings to anyone who makes the voyage.

Likeably Crisp Sauvignon Blanc

There is always something to like in Sauvignon Blanc. It is a light, young, crisp wine with an inner presence of lingering green apples. Good examples of a Sauvignon Blanc will be lean and trim, not fettered with too many aromas or taste sensations.

The producing countries of origin normally follow a stylistic pattern of how dry or how crisp the wine will be on the palate. The Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre in France, for example will have a smooth finish and still maintain a crispness that will flatter fish dishes. The American version will be a little lighter in body and drier to taste. New Zealand’s versions tend to be lighter and drier still. All of these wines will still possess the basic underlying characteristics of green apple but some, other than the French, will also exhibit tropical fruit flavors similar to pineapple.

No matter which country of origin, Sauvignon Blanc is a perfectly refreshing summer wine with or without food. It also makes a great aperitif called, “Kir”. Just add one or two ounces of Crème de Cassis to a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and enjoy the wonderful fruity acids of the wine mingling with the rich creamy texture of the Crème de Cassis.

Like Diogenes and haunted by the specter of “that” Chardonnay I will remain in the land of once-upon-a-time, forever searching for that incomparable taste. Until then I take heart in the delightful pleasures of other white wines.

The Spanish Wine of Distinction

2011-06-09T07:31:00.001-07:00

Sherry

The common misconception of Sherry today, is that all Sherry is a sweet, creamy wine similar to Harvey’s Bristol Cream. This is not the Sherry that Edgar Allen Poe’s, Fortunato, in “The Cask of Amontillado”, perilously but avidly traipsed through dank underground caverns, filled with “nitre” to taste.

Sherry devolved into this sweet creamy styled wine to meet the needs of a mass consumer export market and as a result lacks the nuance and complexity that fine Spanish Sherry is endowed with. “Real” Sherry is a unique wine from Spain’s bygone era of an empire with conquistadors sailing the seven seas in search of treasure and new trade routes. This Sherry, the Sherry of old Spain is an intriguing and often times a beguiling white wine; and then there are times it is an amber hued opulent wine to savor.

As with fine Champagne, Sherry takes its name from its place of origin, Jerez de la Frontera, a town in southwest Spain. The name “Jerez” morphed into “Sherry” by the British, those age-old lovers of all wines, who mispronounced the name Jerez, as Sherry; as it is known today. “Jerez”, its proper Spanish name, is a fanciful wine that is delightful with food, as it was originally intended, or as an aperitif. Also similar to fine French Champagne, Jerez requires long and special treatment, setting it apart from ordinary wine. Some forms of Jerez mature in barrels under a protective coating of yeast called the flor, imparting fine and delicate qualities to it that other wines do not have. Almost all Jerez is made from a unique, time consuming blending system called solera, in which older barrels of Jerez are topped off with younger ones of the same style. The solera manner of transferring young Jerez from recent vintages to barrels of Jerez from older vintages, year after year, is similar to French vintners blending different grapes to produce outstanding wines in Bordeaux France.

     The Andalusia region of Spain, where Jerez comes from is steeped in the culture and tradition of “old” Spain, dating back to its Moorish and Arabic origins. One folk tale attributed to Jerez is how Tapas, which is the Spanish practice of serving small plates of food started. The word tapa means lid or cover. What we call Tapas today started long ago in Spanish bars as a practical means of keeping fruit flies off of a glass of Jerez with a simple piece of bread. This eventually led to small amounts of food on the bread, such as olives, cheese, ham and sausage, to encourage more drinking. Today there are innumerable Tascas (bars that offer Tapas) throughout Spain offering a vast array of delectables known as “Tapas”.
    Jerez is fortified with additional alcohol after all of the grape’s natural sugar has been converted to alcohol, making it a naturally dry, not sweet, white wine. There are two basic types of Jerez, Fino and Oloroso. Usually the finest batches of grapes are reserved for Fino because it is fortified with less alcohol than Oloroso and it is the most delicate of all the different versions of Jerez.

The Beautiful Fino and the Beastly Flor

     The Fino style of Jerez matures in wood barrels under a fascinating protective covering of yeast called the flor. The yeast or the flor grows naturally on the surface of the wine in the barrel, creating a beastly, foamy layer of bubbling yeast. The flor prevents the wine from oxidizing and lives on the air in the barrel and feeds off of the alcohol and glycerin in the wine. Underneath the unsightly layer of yeast a magical transformation takes place. Beneath the murky covering of the flor is a beautiful pale, straw-like colored wine that is thinner and more delicate than it otherwise would be and is teeming with a profusion of extraordinary aromas and pungent flavors.
     Once the Fino loses the protective coating of the flor by bottling, it becomes susceptible to oxidation spoilage and loses its youthful exuberance. To experience Fino at its peak, it should be consumed as fresh from the barrel as possible. Unfortunately, it is impossible for us to savor the fresh, pungent flavors of Fino straight from the barrels. Freshness aside, Finos are worth experiencing to discover the real dry, elegant taste of Jerez.
     Another version of Fino is Manzanilla, made only in Sanlúcar de Barrameda on the western coast of Spain. Sanlúcar de Barrameda is one of the three towns that make up what is know as the “sherry triangle” in Andalusia; the other two towns are Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto de Santa Maria. The Jerez of Sanlúcar de Barrameda is heavily influenced by the moist, salty air of the Atlantic Ocean that fosters a thicker flor in the barrel. Manzanilla also has a pale-straw hue, as other Finos, but is the driest and most pungent version of Fino, owing to the salt-water air in the flor. This too should be consumed at its freshest to fully appreciate the aromatics of the flor enhanced by the salty sea air.
    Oloroso on the other hand is a Jerez that we can enjoy now and one that is at its best long after bottling. This version of Jerez is traditionally barrel aged, without the protective coating of the flor and is fortified with more alcohol than Fino. Since Oloroso has already been exposed to oxygen during its maturation it can age almost indefinitely in an unopened bottle. Depending on the length of aging in the barrel, the colors of Oloroso range from shimmering amber to luxuriant mahogany. It is lush and full bodied, with wonderful aromas of walnuts and still dry to the taste without the tart pungency of Fino. Unlike Fino, that is best fresh, we can enjoy the soft, rich, nutty flavors of Oloroso long after it has been bottled in Spain.
     In-between the pungent taste of Fino and the mellow Oloroso, is my favorite Jerez and also the wine that Fortunato lost his life trying to taste—Amontillado. Initially, Amontillado is made as Fino, maturing under the flor, and then allowed to age further without the oxygen depriving cover of the flor. The result is a marvelous, amber hued cross between Fino and Oloroso for us to savor as often as we like. Amontillado combines the distinctive pungency and delicacy created by the flor with the richness of Oloroso and manifests its own unique hazelnut aromas and nutty flavors. Happily, we do not have to undergo a perilous journey through musty caverns to relish the flavors of Amontillado.
     Yet another Jerez that starts off as Fino, aging with the flor and then maturing without it is Manzanilla Pasado. This is darker and fuller bodied than Manzanilla but is still crisp and pungent because of the thickness of the flor in Sanlúcar de Barrameda where it is made.
    The Jerez of Spain’s glorious past is not today’s sugary version that we associate it with but it is the pungently dry, delicate Fino or the rich, tawny Oloroso or the variations of Amontillado, Manzanilla or Manzanilla Pasado in-between. These are the intriguing wines that Spanish aristocrats sipped, while lounging on the patios of their gleaming white haciendas, overlooking the mountains of Andalusia or the cobalt seas of the Costa del Sol, while listening to the reverberating strings of Spanish guitars and the clacking castanets of flamenco dancers in the background. These are the tastes of Jerez!

Ole!

The Eloquence of California-French

2011-02-15T10:02:00.002-07:00

In the language of wines, the eloquence of California-French is beautifully expressed in three wines I tasted from Paso Robles. These are rich, provocative wines of incomparable style. Each one is emblematic of the term, California-French as an apt description of their unique character. They are alluring wines possessing the delicate balance of tannins and acids of French wines and the distinctive rich texture of wines from Paso Robles. They are decidedly—California-French!

Bernard and Stephan Asseo, Winemaker

The 2006, Estate Cuvée from L’Aventure is a wine of singular character and style. It is a unique blend of 49% Syrah (a mainstay of the Rhone Valley) and 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Petit Verdot (staples of the Bordeaux region), defying comparisons to wines from the Rhone Valley and Bordeaux, France. On the nose there are enticing aromas of black tea, currant and smoke. These same wonderful aromas are transformed onto the palate as titillating taste sensations for added pleasure. L’Aventure’s Estate Cuvée is a well-balanced, luscious wine to compliment juicy steaks, hearty beef stews and other robust beef dishes.

Another full-bodied California-French gem from Paso Robles is the 2006 Cuvée des Trois Cépages (Vintage of Three Types of Vines) from RN Estate Vineyards. This wine is a classic blend of varietals used in making wine on the left bank of the Gironde River in Bordeaux: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The Cuvée des Trois Cépages “feels” heavier in the mouth than most Bordeaux blends; with rich black cherry flavors and hints of black tea and currant that coat the palate from the first sip to the last

mouthful. The tannins and acids are very well balanced, with a touch more tannin than acid, which is just as it should be for a wine with this blend of grapes. The “feel” and texture of the Cuvée des Trois Cépages is that of a more mature wine. Layered with nuances of black fruit and subtleties of non-fruit flavors, it is a sensuous taste adventure for oenophiles and novices alike. Savor this big wine with beef, steaks and other robust dishes such as braised leg of lamb.

Completing our trio of singular wines from Paso Robles is the 2006, Cote de Tablas Blanc, from Tablas Creek Vineyards. This is an intriguing white wine, blended with organically grown Rhone Valley varietals: Viognier, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne. On the palate luscious tropical fruit acids coalesce with rich butterscotch flavors, thrilling the palate with unexpected taste sensations from a white wine. The Cote de Tablas Blanc is a flavor-rich sipping wine to relish alone or with rich oily fish such as Chilean Sea Bass or Monkfish.

California-French wines, such as these defy the comparative labels attributed to them as “Rhone Clones” and “Bordeaux blends”. With their tantalizing layers of flavor and rich textures they are anything but clones of something else or “just like” other wines. They are uniquely California-French!

Road Less Traveled Part III

2010-09-08T09:18:00.001-07:00

The Dawning of California-French Wines

A glass of wine is an enticing collection of flavors waiting to unfold on our palates. With each sip, our taste buds are awash with the fruit flavors, acids and tannins that titillate our senses. Every mouthful reveals a wine’s individual style, structure and character that either reaffirms our expectations of a certain type of wine or creates a new standard by which we will judge other similar wines in the future. Then there are wines that are so unique, so individualistic that when we have them it is as if we have never sipped this type of wine before. This is what I experienced on a road less traveled.

While tasting over two hundred different wines, from over thirty wineries and vineyards along the winding backs roads of Paso Robles California I came upon the unexpected, an uncommon reward for my efforts—a new style of wine. These wines evoked such new taste sensations that the usual comparisons with other such wines were inadequate. As a way of setting these sumptuous Paso Robles wines apart from what others “label” as “Rhone Clones” or “Bordeaux Blends” I created a new term, California-French to exemplify their unique individuality. Referring to these wines as “clones” of the Rhone Valley or merely “blends” from the grapes used in Bordeaux is inaccurate. They are wines with exceptional richness and texture, in a class by themselves.

Wine producing countries, states and regions all have, what I call “personalities” or certain taste sensations that are associated with and expected from their wines. Good examples of wines from the Rhone Valley in France, such as Cote du Rhone, are light to moderate in body with mildly spicy fruit flavors, low tannins and moderate acids. Typical wines from Bordeaux on the other hand, will have more body, noticeable tannins, moderate acids and fruit flavors that are reminiscent of currants as well as non-fruit flavors such as smoke, tobacco or chocolate. Referring to a particular wine as a Rhone Clone or Bordeaux Blend, with similar taste characteristics as those from these two French wine producing regions, is a popular and until now an accurate way of describing such wines. That was before I tasted wines from three vineyards in Paso Robles California. Each vineyard produced wines of such unmatched style and character that they demanded their own unique descriptive category, hence the term—California-French.

Next month we will “taste” the wines and meet the vintners and vineyard owners of these extraordinary wines.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference. By Robert Frost

The Road Less Traveled Part 2 - The Rule Breakers!

2010-06-05T10:58:00.003-07:00

According to the dictionary, the word “rule” is defined as, “prescribed guides of conduct or actions”. Rules give us a sense of security and create order in an otherwise insecure and often chaotic world. In a society, for instance the “rule of law” establishes proper behavior for everyone to live by. “Rules of thumb” are markers or standards to help us make decisions. There are also rules that we make ourselves to determine what to expect from others and the best way to evaluate certain products. For example, “as a rule” people who lie cannot be trusted and custom-made is better than mass-produced; items that cost more are usually better than those for much less money and so on.

When it comes to wine, I have very definite “rules” that guide my judgments and influence my purchasing decisions. One of these rules is that the better wines will normally come from winemakers who meticulously watch over the vines, personally supervise or handpick only the finest grapes from their own vineyard. This stems from the belief that when winemakers use grapes from their own vineyard they can select the best grapes for their wine, which they are not necessarily able to do if they purchase grapes from someone else’s vineyard.

My other rule is not to waste my money on wine made from grapes varietals, indigenous to other countries, produced here. I have tried many wines from such as Spain’s Tempranillo and Italy’s Sangiovese, produced in California without success. In the past, these rules have kept me from wasting my wine budget on certain domestic wines and enabled me to get the best value for my money.

In part one of “The Road Less Traveled” series; we discovered very good wines from a group of “Not-Your-Typical Winemakers”. In this installment, we are going to meet two winemakers who are breaking my “rules” with such stunning success that I am obliged to mention them as the “exceptions” to the rule in my wine classes.

Michael Barreto's Wines

The first “rule-breaker” is Michael Barreto, an affable young man who has been making wine since 1999. Unlike the “not-your-typical-winemakers” in part one, most of Michael’s education and work experience involves wine and winemaking. In 2002, Michael and his wife Joey established Barreto Cellars to produce wines featuring the native grape varietals of Portugal, where Michael’s family is from, and Spanish varietals. .

There are no flowery descriptions of Barreto Cellars vineyards to share; no picturesque scenery or quaint home overlooking a valley—just great wine. All the grapes in Barreto Cellars wines are purchased from other Paso Robles vineyards, which makes Michael and Joey’s accomplishments that much more outstanding. Not only are they producing very good wine from grape varietals grown on “foreign” soil, they do not own the vineyards where these grapes are grown. I had tasted other wines made from Tempranillo by other California producers, who did own the vineyard where the grapes were grown and they were not worth the money or simply not pleasant. Then I met Michael Barreto.
Part of Michael’s concept for Barreto Cellars is to “produce wines for an entire meal”, he said during our interview. In keeping with that philosophy, Barreto Cellars produces a very nice, crisp Verdelho, a white wine made from a Portuguese grape varietal to start a meal. There are two red wines for the main course; the first is a Tempranillo. The 2004 Tempranillo I tasted had a pleasant raspberry aroma on the nose, a good balance of acids and tannins with spicy chocolate flavors. It was richer than most imported Spanish Tempranillos but still maintained the grapes basic fruity characteristics. The other red, the 2004 Vinho Tinto consists of grape varietals native to Spanish and Portugal, then barrel aged for sixteen months and bottle aged for an additional twelve. It is a complex, full-bodied wine with rich chocolate cocoa flavors—a hearty, wine lovers wine. Completing the Barreto Cellars “wine meal” philosophy, is a delicious “Port” styled wine with spicy aromas of currant on the nose that is rich and mellow to taste. This fortified wine is wonderful way to top off any meal or just sip for the pleasure of it.

Without realizing it, Michael Barreto has broken two rules that I have held near and dear to me for quite some time. Broken rules not withstanding, my wine chiller now includes some very enjoyable wines, made from Spanish and Portuguese grape varietals from Barreto Cellars.

John Backer - August Ridge

The next rule-breaker is just as pleasant a surprise as Michael Barreto is with an Italian varietal. The Sangiovese is the primary grape of Italy’s highly regarded Tuscany wine region. During my visit to Paso Robles, I tasted countless numbers of wine made from this grape by other producers. Some were better than others were but mostly they were all not worth their premium price tag compared to the less expensive Sangiovese wines from Italy. That was until I tasted the estate grown Sangiovese from August Ridge Wineries in Paso Robles.

My enthusiasm for this wine is unbridled. It is lush and opulent with a distinctive style of its own. It is also fuller and richer than any wine I have had from Tuscany and is still very much a Sangiovese, a flavorful wine for pizza, pasta, veal and beef. The Sangiovese from August Ridge is an elegant wine, reminiscent in many ways of an Italian opera—dramatic and very entertaining.

In 2001, John Backer and his wife Jill Zamborelli Backer purchased their forty-acre vineyard in Paso Robles to grow Italian grape varietals and make wine that would combine the rich, robust character of California with the sophistication of European wines. Their Sangiovese not only accomplishes their goal but also creates a new description for Sangiovese that is, “distinctively August Ridge of Paso Robles”—bravo!

In our final installment of “The Road Less Traveled”, we will meet winemakers who are creating a new style of wine, California-French. Until then remember, sometimes the best rules are the ones that are broken.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—

I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the dierence. By Robert Frost

The Road Less Traveled - Part One - Not-Your-Typical Winemakers

2010-05-04T15:19:00.002-07:00

For us desert-dwellers, the allure of moderate temperatures in the nearby Central Coast of California is greater during the high heat of the summer season than it is at any other time of the year. The cool sensation of the moist ocean mist spraying on our face and the undulating, verdant hillsides dotted with vineyards and wineries are too much to resist. Come with me on a chimerical get-away, to where the cool ocean breeze is calling; winemakers are enticing our taste buds with red wines, white wines, rosés and fresh savory seafood is waiting for us on a dock of a bay that is kissed by the sun and cooled by ocean air.

In the central coast wine region of Paso Robles there are daily bus tours traveling country roads to the tasting rooms of many of the major wineries, such as the Robert Hall Winery, J. Lohr, Edward Sellers Vineyards and Wines to name just a few. Turning away from the well-worn routes of these frequented roads, we depart the ordinary and navigate “the road less traveled”. On our journey, we will encounter the obscure, the unique and a new style of wine. In “not-your-typical winemakers”, we will meet people who traveled odd paths to make wine; in part two, we will taste the wines of the “rule-breakers” and ending our sojourn from the desert, we will discover the new “California-French” wine.

The Environmentalist

From environmental engineering and environmental law, to organic and sustainable farming Jeff Pipes, owner of Pipestone Vineyards cultivates his land using a team of draft horses. For Jeff the road to becoming a “not-your-typical winemaker” started in the Midwest. Now after three degrees and twenty-two years of schooling, unrelated to winemaking, he is cultivating his love for winemaking and the environment in Paso Robles. His wife, Florence Wong arrived via Hong Kong and a career in fashion to work hand and hand with him in their vineyard. Together they are combining western environmentally sustainable farming techniques and eastern feng shui principles to live in concert with nature, farming and making wine.

Jeff Pipes and Bernard

In the rustic, farm-like setting of Pipestone Vineyards tasting room, off Highway 46 in Paso Robles, Jeff shared his winemaking philosophy and demonstrable passion for protecting the environment, while pouring his wines. All of Pipestone’s wines are hand picked from estate-grown grapes. My favorites were the 2005 Syrah, with an earthy nose and white pepper finish and the Grenache Rose that was fruity and well balanced with a clean, smooth finish.

The Sailor

It is hard to imagine twenty-eight years in the US Navy qualifying anyone to be a winemaker, let alone one with the skill of Leon Tackitt of Tackitt Family Wines. Yet such is the case with Leon. Nearing retirement from the U.S. Navy in 1998, Leon and his wife Cindy decided to start a new life on his grandparent’s vineyard in San Miguel and make wine! Luckily for us they did. After several years of hard work, trial and error and much effort Leon and Cindy are on their way to establishing a winery of note and great promise.

Leon Tackitt and his Dad

Their 2007 Gewürztraminer is a wine of exceptional quality. The grapes are estate grown with aromas of just picked fresh peaches and hints of honey on the nose. To the taste, the fruit is leaning towards apricots with hints of apple. The mild acids on the finish nicely compliments cheese and cured meats. This wine achieves a very delicate balance of sugar and mouth-watering acids on the palate, allowing us to enjoy it before, during or after dinner. Capitalizing on his obvious knack for making white wine Leon has recently released a Riesling that I can hardly wait to taste.

Newark New Jersey Musicians

Carmine Rubino and John D’Andrea of D’Anbino Vineyards and Cellars are another example of not-your-typical winemakers flourishing in Paso Robles. Carmine and John grew up like “brothers” in an Italian neighborhood in Newark, New Jersey. Each pursued separate careers in music, recording, film and television in New York City and Los Angeles.

Reunited again, they are making wine worthy of their Italian heritage and continue to pursue their love for music. Located in “downtown” Paso Robles their tasting room is a mini cabaret, equipped with a professional sound system, stage, bar, tables and chairs that hosts musical events, shows and—oh yes, their wines.

All of the D’Anbino Vineyards and Cellars wines are estate grown and bottled on their vineyard in the Estralla Range, east of Highway 101 in Paso Robles, except the Sauvignon Blanc. Their Syrah is the wine that stands out and shows off their true winemaking skills. The 2002 Syrah I tasted had wonderful earth tones on the nose, mild tannins and acid, with hints of black tea and pepper on the palate. For dessert lovers their “Portamento”, a port styled wine, the taste of which still lingers in my memory as I write this article is dessert by itself. On the nose, there are aromas of yeast and dough that whet the appetite for something sweet; on the palate the taste of cinnamon cake and “hot cross buns” lingers on the finish. This is a perfect wine for chocolates and other sweets.

Barry Kinnman-Bear CaveCellars

These are just a few of the not-your-typical winemakers we uncovered on our get-away to California’s Central Coast wine region. There was also a duo of practicing attorneys, Barry Kinnman and his wife Marilyn Curry, owners of Bear Cave Cellars; a one time major leaguer, Tom Hinkle, of Rio Seco Vineyard and Winery; Stephen Lock a former educational publishing executive and now owner and winemaker of Ecluse Wines, plus others who have transcended their previous professions to be not-your-typical winemakers.

Our journey ends with seafood on a bay presided over by the “Morro Rock”, a 176-meter high, volcanic plug looming over the entrance to a harbor and a causeway that connects it to the shore. Traveling from Paso Robles, on US highway 1 south, the glamorous and sometimes notorious Pacific Coast Highway, past the quaint town of Cambria, we work our way down to the lazy fishing village of Morro Bay. On the northern end of the Embarcadero, on the bay, adjacent to rolling fishing boats and trawlers docked at the pier, there is Tognazzini’ Dockside Restaurant and Fish Market. Sitting on a sun drenched wooden deck, dotted with plastic tables and chairs that are shaded by large beach umbrellas one can enjoy heaping platters of deep fried fresh fish or my favorite “barbequed oysters”. These oysters are the largest and best I have ever had. Cooked to perfection on an open flame grill in their shells, served on the half-shell smothered in melted butter and garlic for more savory opulence, they are an uncommon delight. The oysters are pump, tender and juicy, perfectly seasoned by the richness of the melted butter and the tangy garlic. Add a loaf of bread to sop up the oyster juices and the garlic butter then wash it down with a chilled glass of Chardonnay or a pitcher of cold beer and the hot desert sun of Arizona will be but a faint memory.

Next month, in part two of The Road Less Traveled series we will meet - The Rule-Breakers.

Happy trails!

Italy—Land of Wine Values

2010-04-02T07:59:00.002-07:00

Italian wines are wonderful and at the same time maddening. Many of the wine regions blend their wines with the same grape varietals, giving them a “sameness” that makes it difficult to differentiate the regions by taste. Still, no matter how frustrating it may be to find taste differences between regions, Italian wines are some of the best values for the money.

The colonizing Greeks called Italy Oenotria, “the land of wine”. Its topography is ideal for growing grapes. On this peninsular, caressed by the balmy breezes of the Tyrrhenian, Ionian, and Adriatic seas there is an abundance of sunshine, sloping hillsides and a temperate climate. The soil is no less perfect than the topography is for viticulture; much of the soil is volcanic and limestone with plenty of gravel and clay to nurture the most finicky grape vines. With seemingly everything in its favor to consistently produce great wines, it somehow manages to be very inconsistent in the greatness of its wines. However, if there is one constant about wines from Italy, it is that Italian winemakers produce good wines, sometimes great wines but almost always produce affordable wines that are well worth the money.

Most wines made in a country will compliment the country’s cuisine and Italy is no exception. Italian wines are wonderful taste companions for chicken, veal, meatballs, pork sausage, tomatoes and tomato sauces. It is hard for me to think of pasta or pizza without a glass of Italian wine. Never do I think of a French wine, whose virtues I continuously extol, nor do I crave a hearty California wine to go with a bowl of pasta or a thin crusted pizza. It is always a wine from Italy with just the right amount of fruit and acids to intermingle with the tomato sauce clinging to my pasta or to wash down, but not overpower the melted mozzarella cheese and pizza crust. Italian wines were made to compliment Italian food but they are also perfect partners for similar dishes that are not necessarily Italian.

A Patchwork of Denomination of Origins
Italy’s numerous wine regions and designations of origination are of minimal value in determining a specific taste because of their overlapping borders and also many regions use the very same grapes in their wine. There are twenty official wine growing regions in Italy. Within these twenty “official” regions, there are thirty-six DOCG’s (denomination origins of control guaranteed) with an additional and overlapping twenty-one DOC’s, which do not have the word “guaranteed” in their designation. DOCG and DOC are designations similar to the French AOC (Appellation Origin of Control) and the American AVA (American Viticultural Area) which further defines a geographical wine producing area and also sets limits on the amount of grapes grown there to prevent dilution of the grape’s quality. To add to this already abundant list of designations, Italy has added new categories, VDT (Vino da Tavola) and IGT (Indicazione Georgraphica Tipica) which in some instances are expanded versions of already existing DOCs and DOCGs.

Italy “boasts” three hundred and fifty varietals grown throughout the country, some of the same grapes are used to make wine in more that one region. Unfortunately, because of this the DOCs and DOCGs lose their significance. For example, the Sangiovese grape is grown in many regions and is used in the wine in these regions, such as Tuscany, Veneto, Umbria, Sardinia and others. The differences in the wines from these regions will be in their “regional style” and also in how much of the Sangiovese grape is used, rather than the tightly defined location of where the Sangiovese grape is grown. In some instances we can almost always be assured of tasting Sangiovese, to one degree or another, in some wines, no matter what the DOC or DOCG. Fortunately we do not need to work our way through all the origins of control to find very good and affordable wines from Italy. Let us visit three wines regions with very good wine values.

Abruzzi
The first region is Abruzzi, situated southeast of Rome on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. Outside of the tiny city of Vasto Italy, population approximately 36,000 lays the DOCG, Montepulciano d’Abruzzi. This wine is named for its grape, Montepulciano and its wine growing region of Abruzzi. Most of the wines here are fruity bargains, selling for about eight dollars a bottle and up. Like most wines in this price category, they are young and fruity and the quality can vary from bottle to bottle. However, these wines are invariable well worth the money for simple, everyday table wines. (A word of caution, do not confuse this wine with Vino Di Montepulciano from Tuscany, which is more expensive and made from Sangiovese.)

Tuscany
Traveling northwest from Abruzzi we come to the romantic region of Tuscany, home of Chianti and one of Italy’s most abundant grapes, Sangiovese. Chianti, like most of the wines from Tuscany is made from mostly, if not all Sangiovese. The better Chiantis are labeled Chianti Classico, the classical or original Chianti area, as opposed to simply Chianti, which is the new and expanded Chianti zone. Generally, Chianti will have more body than Montepulciano d’Abruzzi and will not be as fruity.

Chianti Favorites
My two favorite Chiantis are both from the Chianti Classico DOCG and are labeled “Riservas”, which guarantee a minimum of barrel aging depending on the producer; usually it is twelve months or more. Nozzole Chianti Classico is one hundred percent Sangiovese, wood barrel aged for twelve months and sells for approximately $23.00 locally. This wine was recommended to me back in 1970 by a very knowledgeable wine merchant in New York City and I have been drinking it ever since. The quality of Nozzole has hardly varied over the years. It is medium bodied, soft to moderate tannins with a long spicy finish.

My other favorite Chianti is Ruffino Riserva Ducale with the gold label. It is aged in wood for two years, and is a medium bodied Chianti with softer tannins than Nozzole and a moderately less spicy finish. It sells for about the same price as Nozzole, under $25.00 a bottle, depending on the merchant. Both of these Chiantis will add a special touch of Italy to any Italian styled dinner.

Veneto
Next we travel north to the verdant hills of the Veneto wine region, where we will find the DOCG, Valpolicella. Of all of the wines in Italy (except for Barolo from Piedmont and Amarone from this same region, both of which have become far too expensive to enjoy casually) this wine is the most intriguing and the best value for its quality.

My Favorite Valpolicella
Valpolicella is a blend of indigenous regional grapes, mostly Corvina and is made using an ancient local fermentation method called ripasso. This process ferments the wine a second time with used, dried grape skins from the more distinctive Amarone wine. The result is a Valpolicella that is deep, round and very well balanced, with soft tannins, moderate acids and flavors reminiscent of dried prunes—a flavor that comes from the grape skins used in making Amarone. A good example of a tasty, well balanced Valpolicella is produced by Masi, called Campofiorin and is available for less than $20.00 a bottle.

Very few countries can boast the vast array of wines that Italy has to offer, with prices that can satisfy the most cost conscience wine lover. These three are just a small sample of the wine values from Oenotria, the land of wine—values.

Rose.......Blushingly.....EXPOSED!

2010-03-04T10:45:00.002-07:00

In the process of writing this article about rosé wine, a moment of uncertainty surfaced within this writer. It was a telling moment that determined the very fate of the article. Rosé wines are unpretentious, lighthearted and an ideal choice to have with many different types of food. These are great qualities for a wine to possess but the question lingered—are they enough to merit a story of their own. Such was my dilemma until research and good fortune provided other practical tidbits of information about rosé wine to give birth to this article.

First, I uncovered a website devoted entirely to rosé wine, www.RAP.com (Rosé Avengers and Producers). The site is composed of an international group of rosé vintners and enthusiasts determined to “right the wrongs done to dry rosé”. There are many injustices relating to wine, such as the misconception that all Sherry is sweet and syrupy for one; another is the practice of labeling sparkling wine as “Champagne” when it is not from the Champagne region in France. Curiously, neither one of these more eminent wines has a website devoted entirely to “righting their wrongs”; but simple rosé has one.

Adding to this internet discovery, a fellow wine buff, Leonard Eaton brought to my attention new European Union regulations on rosé wine labels that I will comment on later. There are also other classifications for rosé wine, here-to-fore unknown to this writer, such as Oeil de Perdix, an old French name for a pale rosé, Retsina, a unique Greek rosé that has been made for 2,000 years and Schilcher, rosé wine made only in Austria. All this intriguing and little known data about such a likeable and easy to drink wine as rosé!

In the United States, Blush Wines and White Zinfandels are pseudonyms for rosé wines. These pseudonyms are the creation of very same Madison Avenue image-makers who once extolled the merits of boring wines, such as Mateus and Lancers. As a result of their successful advertising campaign for Mateus and Lancers, many Americans do not usually hold rosé wine in very high esteem, hence the need for pseudonyms for rosé. For those of us who have enjoyed “other” rosé wines from around the world, there is no need to hide the name rosé underneath a pseudonym to differentiate it from Mateus and Lancers.

My introduction to the pleasures of this wine was “Brilliante Rosado” from Spain. A wine-savvy friend brought it to my attention about the same time “Mateus” and Lancers became popular in New York City, during the late nineteen-sixties. When everyone else’s palate was mislead into thinking the sweet, bubbly “Mateus” or the cherry-soda like “Lancers” was “rosé”, I was quaffing the light and dry, pale garnet hued Brilliante Rosado almost nightly with different foods. I have been an advocate of rosé wine ever since.

Rosé wine has a distinctive easy style of its own that is not similar to red or white wines, yet is still relevant on the palate. This gentle pink creation of the vintner is at its best young; revealing a delicate and refreshing texture on the palate. It is almost “bashful” with food, preferring to coalesce with other flavors rather than stand apart. Generally, good rosé wines are somewhat dry but not tart, with enough flavor to imply a fruit’s sweet presence but still not sweet. The color of the wine can vary greatly, from nearly lucid pink to shades as dark as strawberry-pink. Almost independent of its country-of-origin or maker, rosé transcends the concept of red wine with red meat and white wine for chicken and fish. Therein lays its transcendental appeal to wine-lovers.

Rosé wines are white wines tinted by the color of red grape skins or occasionally white wines blended with red wines to create lush pink wines. They are easy on the palate with scarcely noticeable hints of tannin from the red grape skin or the red wine that created its pale rose-petal color. The scintilla of tannin in the wine will remind your taste buds of its presence with beef, veal and pork and evanesce with chicken or fish.

This would be a good time to comment on the previously mentioned new European Union regulations pertaining to rosé wine. There is presently much ado over these soon to be adopted wine label requirements. The new law requires rosé wine labels to indicate whether they are “Traditional Rosé”, made by fermenting white wine with red grape skins or “Blended Rosé”, which is made from combining both red and white wine. Why this matters escapes this wine-lover. How the color comes about is irrelevant compared to the taste. This added classification will just confuse the issue for most consumers when the important information is already on the label.

Winemakers in Bordeaux, France have been combining different red grapes for decades to create some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world. The opulent red wine from the Rhone Valley in France, Chateauneuf du Pape can have as many a thirteen different grapes, red or white. Neither one of these wines are required to have differentiating labels from those with different blending recipes. The accepted practice of combining different grapes is no different from combining different colored wines for harmony and balance. Spain, which is one of the few countries to allow this blending of red and white wines for rosé produces some of the most enjoyable, easy drinking rosés available. In light of all this, the new label regulation seems theatrically staged for some unknown political benefit or “Much Ado About Nothing”.

While teaching a wine tasting class in Green Valley this year I sampled a delicious Spanish rosé, from Tarragona, Spain called Nostrada. This wine is refreshingly dry and fruity and costs only seven dollars a bottle! California is also not without it’s rosé wine values. This past summer I tasted the Lunar Rosé, from Midnight Cellars in Paso Robles, California that I recommended in my November article titled “A Thanksgiving Symphony for Food and Wine”. The Lunar Rosé is a fruity wine that leaves feint hints of sweetness on the palate with each delightful sip. It sells for about ten dollars a bottle. They are both good examples of inexpensive and good tasting rosé wines to enjoy with or without food.

All the factoids, different terms and pseudonyms for rosé along with a new set of laws adopted by an austere government body will not change the essence of rosé, which is a simple, easy to drink, versatile wine. Enjoy it with all types of food, whether they are red meats or white chicken. Drink it chilled, but not ice cold and take pleasure from the many different styles of rosé—blushingly exposed.

A Champagne Fantasy

2009-11-27T08:05:00.005-07:00

Let your mind wander and fantasize with me for a brief moment. We are standing in a noisy cabaret. The gas lamps are flickering from the dense smoke wafting in the hot, steamy air. There is music reverberating in every corner of the room from the pulsating rhythms of Jacques Offenbach’s melodies. On the stage we see a line of dancers with ruffled, red skirts of satin and lace exposing one outstretched, gyrating leg in the air, while rhythmically bouncing on the other leg to keep pace with the rollicking cancan music. The tops of their heaving bosoms are accentuated by corseted waists and are partially exposed in low cut white silk blouses. Perspiration is shimmering on their bare shoulders. Their lungs are screaming for air as the music’s pace quickens.

Outside the cabaret walls, on the Boulevard de Clichy, resting at the base of Monmatre (a hill thirty meters high in Paris) it is cold and dark but inside it is bright and steaming hot from the crowd of people. The atmosphere is carefree and festive in the newest dancehall in the Pigalle section of Paris, France. It is a time for gaiety and celebration in an era that will later be called—La Belle Époque! Science and technology are making life easier for everyone with the spreading of electricity across France. The New Year offers great hopes for prosperity in a Europe at peace.

We are standing on the crowded dance floor of the legendary Moulin Rouge. The date is December 31, 1889. It is the inaugural year of the notorious cabaret frequented by the post- impressionist artist, Toulouse-Lautrec. The Champagne from the House of Clicquot is flowing and bubbling over in the glasses of the revelers. In the ballroom lusty, perfumed woman, with highlighted cheeks of rouge, mingle in the crowd adding an air of excitement to the festivities. It is an eclectic gathering of upper class, waist coated nouveau bourgeoisie and prostitutes mingling and rollicking together. Off in a far corner of the room the diminutive Toulouse-Lautrec sits quietly sketching the festivities on a sheet of paper with a charcoal stick. The time nears, the excitement crescendos and erupts in a mass chorus counting down to midnight,

“Dix, neuf, huit, sept, six, cinq, quatre, trois, deux…Bonne Année!”

The Royal Wine

Champagne bespeaks gaiety, opulence and frivolity. The tiny bubbles, long held captive in bottles frivolously dance their way to the tops of elegant, slim flutes while beckoning the holder to come and play. “Leave your troubles behind for another time.” They seem to say. “Indulge yourself in my richness.

I am not an ordinary wine.

I am Champagne!

Champagne is the royalty of wine. To evolve into Champagne, wine undergoes two fermentation processes. The first fermentation takes place in wooden barrels as ordinary wine, and then this still (non-effervescent) wine is transferred to bottles made of thick glass that will transform it from wine to Champagne! The transformation process that is the genesis of Champagne is called Methode Champenoise. It is in this old, time consuming process and the origin of the grapes that makes Champagne different from all other sparkling wines.

In the second fermentation, Methode Champenoise or the Traditional Methode as it is also known; sugar and yeast are added to the still wine to activate the second fermentation. The bottle is corked to prevent the carbon dioxide from escaping. The dead yeast or sediment that forms in the bottle is slowly maneuvered down onto the cork and into the bottle’s neck by a process called riddling (remuage in France). This process consists of inverting the bottles, cork down, on a forty-five degree angle in a specially built rack (pupitre) that was invented by Madame Clicquot in the early eighteen hundreds. Then every three to four days a Remuer (a skilled craftsman) gives the bottle a slight lift and a small turn, by hand, dropping the bottle in the rack with a slight jolt, and then gradually increasing the angle of the tilt downward by lowering the top of the pupitre. This laborious process continues for about six to eight weeks until the sediment is completely collected on the cork and the bottle is upside down. At this point the cork is removed, releasing the collected sediment (disgorgement) and what remains in the bottle is the result of the skillful Remuer’s loving care— crystal clear, sparkling, flavorful Champagne. The bottle is topped-off with a combination of wine, brandy and or sugar, depending on the desired level of sweetness and finally resealed with a new cork and wire.

The use of the name “Champagne” by sparkling wine producers not located in the province of Champagne has, for a very long time been a contentious legal battle among winemakers outside of France. Due to Champagne’s ever increasing popularity and its reputation for painstaking quality it is only natural that other sparkling wines, which are made in the same Traditional Methode, would want to be named Champagne. This name however, denotes more than just a fermentation process; it is also the province in France where the grapes are grown. As I have written many times before in this column and in others, in Europe it is all about the soil—terroir. To the European winemaker the soil plays an integral role in determining the characteristics of the wine along with the winemaking method. Setting international treaties aside for a moment; the question begs to be answered. “If a wine is associated with the place the grapes are grown, then how can wines made from grapes grown elsewhere use the same name?”

In Spain for example, sparkling wine made in the Traditional Methode, is called Cava (see my July 2008 article in the Tubac Villager). Other provinces of France, such as Burgundy and Alsace also make sparkling wine in the Traditional Methode but call them Crémant de Bourgogne and Crémant d’Alsace respectively. The reason is simple—the wine is not from the province of Champagne.

Sparkling wines made in the United States are commonly labeled “Champagne”. The reasons for this are many. For the most part the right to use the name “Champagne” was codified in the Treaty of Versailles, after World War I. The Congress of the Unites States did not ratify the treaty and we consider ourselves free to use the name “Champagne” for our sparkling wine. From my perspective, wine grown in the province of Champagne, made in the Traditional Methode, is “Champagne”. All the other sparkling wines that are made in the Traditional Methode, no matter how good they may be, are simply not Champagne. They are like Champagne, made the same way as Champagne but not Champagne.

Having Champagne is always a memorable experience; whether it is welcoming in a new year, celebrating a joyous event, accompanying food or just sipping it quietly by oneself, its memory lingers. Champagne is so distinctive that everything associated with it becomes memorable.

Sommelier Champagne Selections

Over the years I have enjoyed some of the finest Champagnes produced. Two that come to mind are Cristal and Gosset Grand Reserve. My memory of Cristal is a light, bone dry, crystal clear, shimmering Champagne, gently dancing on my tongue. My mouth waters with the thought of Cristal and caviar.
The mention of Gosset brings back memories of drinking the NV (non vintage) Brut, for the first time, with lunch in a little French boulangerier (bakery) in the village of Epernay that is home to the House of Gosset. Having Champagne with a simple lunch in a French boulangerier may sound terribly decadent but logically, what else would anyone have in the Champagne producing province of France. The Gosset, NV Brut is not as dry as Cristal but still very delicate with a bit more yeast flavors on the palate. The Gosset Grand Reserve is a bit drier than the NV Brut and more delicate but still not as dry as Cristal.

My favorite though is Ruinart, Blanc de Blanc. I will always be indebted to my generous daughter-in-law for making me a gift of this incredibly tasty bubbly. The House of Ruinart is the oldest, continuously producing Champagne house in Reims, France. The Blanc de Blanc is one hundred percent Chardonnay. Each mouthful titillates the palate with tiny effervescence and is full of rich yeast and wet straw aromas. It is a savory, full bodied Champagne that energizes the taste buds with more yeast richness and hints of citrus. Each sip is seductive and inviting.

Gosset and Ruinart are available in wines stores throughout Arizona and usually sell for more than fifty dollars each. As a less expensive American made alternative, I recommend any vintage version of Gruet, Blanc De Blanc from New Mexico (yes, New Mexico). The Gruet family has been producing Champagne in the small town of Bethon, France since 1952. In 1984 Gilbert Gruet’s son Laurent and his sister, Nathalie started making Sparkling Wine, using the Traditional Methode in Albuquerque, New Mexico. As a French family they appropriately do not call their sparkling wine Champagne. It is produced in the Method Champenoise and is a very good value for twenty-five dollars.

Gruet’s Blanc De Blanc is made from Chardonnay, with crisp citrus flavors and is moderately dry to the taste. It starts off a little harsh when the bottle is first opened but softens nicely, after about fifteen minutes of breathing time in the bottle. The bubbles are uniformly tight to delight and reward the budget conscious with a very good value for their dollar spent. Gruet is conveniently available locally.

This year as the clock ticks down to the New Year, lift your glasses with me and let us return to our fantasy celebration at the Moulin Rouge. Come with me where the Champagne is flowing and memories are being born. As we step inside we will hear, “Bienvenue à mon fard à joues de Moulin Rouge. Bonne Année!”

Bernard Berlin

A Thanksgiving Symphony for Food and Wine

2009-11-14T13:53:00.004-07:00

Let us create a “Symphony for Food and Wine” this Thanksgiving. Our musical score, skillfully written will meld wine with food to create a classical dining experience and a memorable symphony. The rhythmic melodies of the food, juxtaposed with the haunting refrains of the wine will delight us and our dinner guests.

Wine is the instrument that brings forth the flavors of the food in each course, just as the winds, strings, brass or percussion sections convey the feelings of the symphony’s movements. We choose the wine to go with the food course the same way we select the instruments to illustrate the mood of the movement. We would not select ponderous tubas for a scherzando (playful mood) in our symphony; just as we should not pair overly tannic wines with the light or delicate dishes of our dinner. With rich, fatty foods such as red meat, select red wines that have enough tannins and acids to stand up to the richness of the food. Conversely, choose light, fruitier styled wines for lighter dishes such as fish, chicken or salads.

In our Symphony for Food and Wine, we call on the suitable instrument to express the mood of the movement the same way we select wines that will compliment the food in each course. When the musical movements of our symphony tell our story of romance, love and joy we have orchestrated a classical composition. As the fruits and acids of the wine meld with the flavors of the food, exciting our senses, we are also orchestrating an exquisite dining experience. The time has come to compose our Symphony of Food and Wine for an unforgettable Thanksgiving feast. Iniziamo—let us begin!

Allegro - The Aperitif

The first movement is the Allegro. It sets the stage for everything to come, the same way an aperitif heightens our taste buds for the upcoming courses. The Allegro Aperitif’s music is light and inviting. We hear animato, rhythmic strings in the opening movement like Vivaldi’s Four Seasons. Emulate the Allegro’s uplifting energy with a whimsical, bubbly Kir Royal (see recipe in the wine menu) as an aperitif. This is a combination of Crème de Cassis (French liquor from black currants) and Champagne. The sugar of the cassis and the effervescence of the Champagne will open up our taste buds with mouth watering acids, titillating our appetite for the coming courses.

Adagio Moderato - The Appetizer

In our second movement the tempo changes from the sprightly Allegro for the Aperitif, without food, to a slower, easy Adagio Moderato with food. Now we hear soft melodic harps with soothing clarinets and piccolos in the background setting an elegantly, slower pace. The mood is romantic, almost wistfully asking for a flavorful, white wine that is a little fruity, with a lingering, resonant finish. Choose a Viognier or a Roussanne varietal or a cuvee blended with these grapes. This wine selection will seduce our palates with citrus and tropical fruit flavors that will whet our appetite for the much anticipated main course—the Scherzo.

Scherzo - The Main Course

The Scherzo for the main course returns us to the quicker pace of the first movement with elongated, low notes from trumpets heralding the arrival of the main course—the succulent stuffed turkey with its savory trimmings. We do not want the trumpets to be played fortissimo (very loud), that would overshadow the other instruments nor do we want our wine to overshadow the food with harsh tannins. In the background, behind the clarinets we enjoy the rich, deep tones from tubas and bass drums, played pianissimo (gently or very softly) the same way the lush fruit flavors will come through the moderate acids of the wine. At the end of this movement, all the instrument sections join together equally in a triumphant climax of sounds like the rich berry flavors of a Pinot Noir blending with the scrumptious juices of the turkey.

Pinots are the perfect companions for turkey with a savory bread, sausage or chestnut stuffing. At its best, Pinot Noir is rich with subtle flavors that will not overpower fowls. A good domestic Pinot will be a little earthy and fruity with lush dark berry undertones. The mild tannins will not overwhelm the turkey’s white meat and the berry’s acids will cut through the fatty juices of the dark meat. The Pinot’s fruity acids also mingle comfortably with the stuffing and other traditional starches such as garlic smashed potatoes or yams.

Allegro - The Dessert

Our Thanksgiving Symphony of Food and Wine comes to a joyful, sweet conclusion with the tingling sounds of tambourines and tubular bells applauding the feast and the sounds of cellos rounding out the perfect finale. Our wine choice for the desert course should be dolce, sweet, and rewarding or legato, smooth and flowing, with traces of fruit, the perfect finish.

Choose a sweet, late harvest wine to go with pumpkin or creamy pies. As a guide, the desert wine can be as sweet as the desert but not sweeter. If you are serving fresh fruit, topped with or without whipped cream, choose a port styled wine. The late harvest wine or the port styled wine can be enjoyed on their own for the diet conscious guest.

In each movement we selected the instruments for their tonal qualities to create a musical form that was individualistic and still a cohesive part of the whole symphony. The wines we selected are as much a part of each course as the food is a part of the entire dinner. The food and the wines experienced together are a dining sensation.

From movement to movement, course to course we have composed a Thanksgiving Symphony Masterpiece. All of the courses are filled with a profusion of sumptuous taste sensations that will be relived in our minds and the minds of our guests’ for a very long time to come.

For a copy of my "Sommelier’s Thanksgiving Wine Menu" email me at BernardBerlin@q.com

Beaujolais-The Joyous Country Wines of Two Seasons

2009-11-12T21:06:00.009-07:00

“Look into a glass of wine from Beaujolais and see the harmony of the hillsides, the smiles of the winegrowers, and the charm of the vineyards and its cellars.” The late Compte Henri de Rambuteau and former president of Confrérie des Compagnons du Beaujolais said this of his beloved province of Beaujolais to an American friend.

There is no other wine in France that epitomizes the personality of the area’s countryside and its people, as much as the wine from Beaujolais. A single mouthful of this wine reveals a subtle effervescence that bursts forth with mouthwatering fruity berry flavors, beckoning the introduction of food. The French enjoy this light red wine with almost any dish, including fish.

The ability of these wines to accompany such a wide variety of food comes from their simple, almost innocent nature. The first sip will be as delightfully revealing as the last swallow, pleasant and fruity. Its lighthearted feel in the mouth invites the company of sausages, hearty vegetables such as mushrooms and potatoes, roasted chickens or rich creamy quiches, brimming with vegetables or ham or both. The wines of Beaujolais are the perfect choice for springtime’s lighter fare or as a year round, everyday table wine.

November is harvest time in the province of Beaujolais. There are a total of twelve growing areas or appellations in this province. Only two of the twelve appellations, Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, situated in the southern half of the province are the home of Beaujolais Nouveau (new Beaujolais). This “new” wine, released as early as three weeks after harvesting is an exuberant expression of the ancient winemaking process called carbonic maceration. Very few wine growing regions, other than Beaujolais, still use this method. First, whole grapes internally ferment for several days while sitting in steel vats, then the grapes undergo crushing and fermentation to become wine.

The color of Beaujolais Nouveau has an appealing luminous iridescence. The strawberry aromas wafting from this “new” wine are light and fresh, provoking a Proustian memory of summer mornings on a country fruit farm. When sipped it dances on our palates with mild fruity acids; a good-natured companion to whatever food we are having.

In April, all twelve of the appellations in the province, including Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, release what the French refer to as the “mature” Beaujolais. In just a few short months, after carbonic maceration takes place and waiting in wood barrels, the “mature” wines replace the “new” wine. They are whimsically playful on the palate and spring into our mouths alive with light-hearted fruity energy, slightly tempered by their brief stay in wood barrels.

Beaujolais’ location is near perfect for growing grapes. Their winemakers say that their vineyards are where the winds of the Atlantic Ocean and Loire River Valley join with the winds coming up from the Rhone River Valley and the Mediterranean Sea, to caress their vines. The province lies southeast of Paris between the celebrated terroir (soil) of Burgundy, at its northern most point and south to Lyon, the home of some of the most celebrated restaurants in France.

The long history of Beaujolais, the wine and the region, is one of honest, hardworking people making an unpretentious drinking wine for everyone to enjoy. Their winemaking skills pass on from generation to generation. Some of the winemaking families in Beaujolais have lived there for many generations. Each succeeding generation grows up with the feel of the soil on their hands and an understanding of the grape that sitting in a university classroom cannot impart. Long ago, long before wine cooperatives were established and prior to négociants selling most of the wine produced in Beaujolais, their winemakers sold their wine by the barrel, directly to the cafés as far south as the city of Lyon.

Le Beaujolais Nouveau est Arrivé!
Every year, in the cold darkness of night, on the third Thursday of November, precisely one minute past midnight, caravans of trucks laden with millions of cases of Beaujolais Nouveau, stream away from the vineyards in the southern half of Beaujolais to distribute their fêted cargo. Celebrating the arrival of “Beaujolais Premeur”, its original name, is a two hundred year old French tradition that originated with horse drawn carts delivering barrels of the “new” wine throughout the nearby towns and villages.

Today, not just the French but also the world celebrates Beaujolais Nouveau’s arrival. In cities all over the world, from Paris to New York, in wine shops and restaurants, posters are proudly displayed declaring, Le Beaujolais Nouveau est Arrivé! No wine’s release is as heralded or as anticipated as that of Beaujolais Nouveau.

In the springtime, when the excitement of Beaujolais Nouveau has subsided, the “mature wines” of Beaujolais takes center stage. These are the wines from the appellations of Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côtes de Brouilly, Brouilly, Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, that are slightly aged compared to their “new” wine cousin. In human terms, the “mature wines” would be akin to teenagers, still teeming with unbridled energy but less youthful, by comparison to their “new” born relative.

A favorite of mine from this historic French region and a very good expression of the “mature wine” from Beaujolais is from Chateau de La Chaize, in Brouilly. The domaine or property is one of the largest and grandest in the region. The same architect of the Palace of Versailles, built for Louis XIV, signed the château’s plans; their sumptuous, regal gardens are the work of the same designer of the beautiful and colorful Tuileries Gardens, adjacent to the Louvre, in Paris. The wine of Chateau de La Chaize is estate bottled and is one hundred percent Gamay, which is the principal grape of Beaujolais. It is an affable, fruity wine that feels as if it is gently sparkling on the palate. I have been enjoying this wine for over ten years and each vintage is consistently pleasurable with almost any food.

Delight in any of the wines from Beaujolais while they are young, within six months after the November release for Beaujolais Nouveau; drink the “mature wines” within one year to three or possible four years after their date of vintage. Remember the pleasure of Beaujolais lies within its youthful exuberance. It excites the palate with mild fruity acids; the aromas inspire memories of fresh cut fruit, with hints of garden soil. The colors are invariably shimmering garnet, luring the beholder to take pleasure in the joyous country wines from Beaujolais.

This year, burst forth into springtime with me and enjoy any of the lively, energetic wines from Beaujolais!
Bernard Berlin